I really hate to be critical (ok not so much) but…… don’t you think our oppressive summer temperatures lead ya’ll to crave a lighter style of cooking? Are you with me here? Have you ever noticed that foods that are in season when the weather is hot, such as summer squash, tend to be less dense and require shorter cooking times than their cold weather cousins - root vegetables? Coincidence? I think not!
I love rich, deeply flavored, complex, slow braises more than most people, and don’t even get me started on my passion for a Gruyere laden potato gratin. Yet when we’re in the clutches of the dog days of summer, shorter cooking times and bright flavors are what turn me on.
So just what am I getting at? Seasonal menus, that’s what. When I was in the restaurant business I would always change my menus seasonally. There are many obvious advantages to this strategy beginning with keeping things fresh and interesting for the cooks. Never underestimate the importance of an engaged employee. By giving the cooks an opportunity to help craft new dishes they then take on pride and ownership in the dishes they produce each day. Secondly, adapting to the local seasons means you can actually buy from local farmers. Thirdly, simple, fresh, quickly prepared summer food tastes better when it’s hot outside and rich, warming, comforting winter food tastes better when it’s cold outside. Therefore it’s just plain ludicrous to offer a menu featuring braises and root vegetables during the hot months. A day at the beach ain’t the same as a day of snow skiing, and menus ought to reflect their local climate.
It’s actually rather easy to adjust your menus and eating habits to the summer climate. The first step is to purchase local summer produce. You’re not going to find a lot of carrots, parsnips, and butternut squash coming out of the ground in July or August. Instead, select summer squashes, eggplants, and peppers.
I like to grill eggplant with a Sicilian style spice blend and sauce them with a vibrant red pepper vinaigrette. A handful of peppery arugula, and some feta or goats cheese really compliment these flavors as well. Try stuffing patty pan squashes with a farce of quinoa, cucumber, herbs, tomatoes, jalapenos, and lots of olive oil and top with grated manchego. A short 20-minutes in the oven and voila! Pure summer flavor. If you grill a few Mayport shrimp, an exquisitely fresh filet of snapper or maybe a quail or two to accompany these light, bright delicious dishes you’ll truly be the Cheffed Up master of the dog days of summer.
Chef Bill’s Roasted Red Pepper Vinaigrette
1 ea red bell peppers, roasted, skinned and seeded
4 ea roasted garlic cloves
1 tsp ginger, minced
½ ea shallot, brunoise
1 tsp Dijon
2 tsp jalapeno, brunoise
1/8 tsp turmeric
1 tsp honey
2 Tbs basil, rough chop
2 oz rice vinegar
5 oz canola oil
1 oz olive oil
Salt tt
1. Place all the ingredients except the oils in a blender.
2. Puree.
3. When smooth begin to emulsify in the canola oil.
4. Taste for salt, bland in olive oil. Check consistency, adjust if necessary.